Access to the Fort, built by the Spanish in the 1800s, is only available through the Gúanica dry forest. Take Highway 334 south from Highway 116 (stay to the left at the only obvious fork in the arterial) and look for the signs for the forest. You'll find the entrance in about a mile. From there you'll wind up along a narrow, fairly scary road the locals insist on taking at absurd speeds.

The real trick is that once you get to the visitors center, you'll see a sign for the fort that points off down a closed, dirt road, and it's 5km away. If you're not feeling up to the challenge of walking six-miles round-trip on uneven terrain in 95-degree weather, this is not the excursion for you. I know it wasn't for me, but this is what I do for a living, so I had no excuse but to make up my displeasure by annoying my fellow travelers.

The fort is largely intact, save for an excess of graffiti, and it's quite small. The old stone is interesting, and stands as a stoic reminder of the disputes these lands have endured. If you enjoy such sites without all the sweating and formation of dusty mud on your pre-salted skin, the fort in San Juan will be more enjoyable, since it's infinitely larger and more ornate, not to mention accessible by bus.

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